Landscape

Ravenous Wolves, oil on canvas, 24X30, $3,478.00 framed includes shipping and handling in continental US. The Vineyard, oil on linen, 30X40, $5072 framed, includes shipping and handling in continental US. The Wreck of the SS Ethie, oil on canvas, 18X24, $2318 framed, includes shipping and handling in continental US. “Midnight at the Wood Lot,” oil …

Seven weeks in a shipyard

“How much does a Maine windjammer cruise cost?” people sometimes ask. It depends, but having watched the months of preparation every Spring, I’d say they’re worth every penny.

The Whole Enchilada

The Whole Enchilada was my penultimate painting before we finally evacuated from El Chaltén, Patagonia, at the beginning of the worldwide COVID lockdown.

Termination dust—the first snow of the year at high elevations—had appeared on the mountains. Hosteria el Pilar would close for the season on April 1. This isn’t a business-driven, Maine-style winter closure, but an absolute necessity. The water lines must be drained and the rooms closed up before winter descends on the Southern Andes in all its fury.

Leaving my room, I was buffeted by wind whistling down the corridor. It was strong enough inside to wrest the door from my hand and slam it.

Jane Chapin, Kellee Mayfield and I climbed the nearest mountain to get a different view of the glaciers. We followed a trail, thinking we would meet up with our fellow painters. Not finding them, we hared straight up the steep hillside. About halfway up, I pointed out that I’d already had my quota of falling off cliffs this year, having tumbled down one in Parrsboro, NS the previous July. None of us had rappelling gear and we were suddenly in a maze of granite ridges.

“If all your friends jumped off a cliff, would you, too?” is a famous parental question. I now knew the answer was yes. Faced with a choice of being left behind or staying with your buddies, you soldier on. The good news is that none of us fell, even descending into a wicked headwind. The view from up there was sublime. We hunched down behind boulders as the wind increased in force. All of us painted well, although there can be no detail when your easel is bucketing in a fierce wind.

Packing up, we realized we had no idea how we’d gotten up there. A mountain looks very different from the top than it does from the bottom. But Kellee and Jane are both half mountain goat, apparently. They found a route down, one that was actually easier than our route up.

Athabasca Glacier

When we arrived at the Athabasca Glacier, there was a scouring bitter Arctic wind. I tied my pochade box on to the bumper, and in seconds it twisted itself loose. Admitting defeat, we took some reference photos and walked to the foot of the glacier. There are warning signs for pedestrians to stay off (although there are tours by gigantic snow-busses). I wouldn’t have trespassed in any case; in addition to my fear of falling into a crevasse, I could barely stand upright against the wind.

The Athabasca Glacier is one of the six principal ‘toes’ of the Columbia Icefield, one of the last great ice fields in North America. We saw it at its annual low point, where summer melt hasn’t been replaced with new snow. The path to the foot of the glacier is lined with signs showing the extent of the giant ice mass at different years. The long walk makes it clear that our climate is changing.

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In 2016, my daughter Mary and I set off across Alaska and Canada on a Great White North Adventure, which you can read about starting here. We arrived in Anchorage at the beginning of September and got home in mid-October. In between, we visited every province but PEI (been there, done that), and Yukon Territory. In retrospect, it might have made more sense to do this during the summer, since Alaska and Canada threw a mess of strange weather at us.